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Castle Crack - 5.10c

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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pro to 2.5"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

Right of the obvious chimney system is this arching crack that starts thin, widens and arches left at the top.

Submitted by: tigerbythetail on 2002-12-04
Views: 680
Route ID: 28020

6 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 6 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: ilikepargo on 2012-09-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars TR Send

Nice to see that a friend of mine posted the last log. I disagree though. I thought it was true to grade, and even a little bit stout. That's based more on the fact that it is sustained rather than on the moves themselves. You will go back and forth between crack holds and face holds. There's usually something there, but you often have to search for it. Greg is right about the feet, but you will have to look around sometimes. And rest any time you can. You'll have to look for that too. I used a kneebar at one point. Later, cramming a toe into the crack helped to take pressure off my hands. And later I slipped a forearm behind an edge and rested off of that. Weird. I've never bragged about rests before. But they were helpful.

Added: 2012-09-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gregory_huey on 2010-09-19 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Seemed easier than I expected

The route has pretty good feet everywhere, and seem easier than I expected based on the grade and it being a trad route. In Yosemite or JT or Tahquitz I would guess this route would be called 10a. Look hard before the pod for pro possibilities - they are there, but maybe not obvious. This route also has so many face features, one almost could get away with only minimal use of the crack. If you want a splitter crack, look elsewhere.

Added: 2010-09-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Reaganchung on 2009-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars awesome climb

really nice climb. Pretty long and interesting moves got pumped as well. Good rock too. Bring extra small gear.

Added: 2009-05-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: snoopy138 on 2006-07-02 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

fun, got it cleanly this time.

Added: 2006-07-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: eyecannon on 2006-07-02 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-07-02

... Read all 6 ascent notes