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Black Magic Poodle - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.25/5 Average Rating : 3.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (34)
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Rock
bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.90/5
  Scenery 4.10/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

The left-most route on the main face starts by climbing up a wedged log to the first bolt. Good edges throughout with a nice variety of moves. A recommended route of the area for the grade.

Submitted by: fungusamungus on 2005-08-08
Views: 1019
Route ID: 18386

34 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: citycrow on 2012-07-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars is pretty awesome route

is pretty awesome

Added: 2012-07-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: raerae on 2011-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Log

Weird to start on a log. At least it has foot holds.
Fun climb. A few pumpy parts.

Added: 2011-08-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clr288 on 2011-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 3rd bolt

Getting to and around the 3rd bolt is the crux. I worked my way up to the left of the 3rd bolt following the crack and wedging my left hip on the upward sloping shelf. Saw people top rope it by going way right and way left which could be easier but may not be on route. Upper face past the crux is slightly overhung but the holds are all there.

Added: 2011-07-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: heinricharrier on 2011-07-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun

Fun route, likely 5.10a vs reported 5.9. Definitely harder than anything on Gold Wall.

Added: 2011-07-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Sirus on 2010-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good climb

I was initially told this was a 5.8, but 5.10a seems much more appropriate. Some parts make it difficult to know whether to go right, left, or straight, but overall a good climb.

Added: 2010-11-30

... Read all 34 ascent notes