| Safety Rating
cruxie as hell
There are two cruxes: immediately you encounter the finess crux when you start the route... there is only one way to do this, and the trick is to stand on the seam about 4 feet from the ground and reach up just above the first bolt for your left hand, and just below to a horizontal crack with your right (there is a small seam behind the curved edge of the crack for the tips of your fingers to jam into) and using those two hand holds, smear up to the dish with your left foot just below the first bolt (at your shoulder). Yeah, sounds crazy, but if you maintain balance, and deliberately make the move, it is totally doable.
The second crux (the more difficult one) is after the first roof. Reach up and over the roof to the right of the bolt on the face for your right hand, and a slopey pincher on the left (if you are shorter than 6 ft) and do a quick one arm pull up and reach up to the the hold just above the bolt. If you are over 6 ft tall, this becomes significantly easier since you can immediately reach the hold above the bolt, and you can smear up to a stance.
Then move up to the left into the crack to the top of the balanced pinnacle boulder.
Fun climb, but harder than a typical Holcomb 10c climb.