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Wilbur - 5.10c

Average Rating = 2.50/5 Average Rating : 2.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock
bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Submitted by: tigerbythetail on 2006-01-20
Views: 357
Route ID: 22738

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: charlenelieu on 2009-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars direct line ascent

This route (called Wilburt's Turning in His Grave) is the direct arete climb. Everything leading up to the arete crux is 5.8, and if you go left around the last two bolts, it is definitely a 5.9. However, if you choose to tackle the line directly up the bolt line, it becomes a whole different story.

I struggled with the bulge.

There were only a couple of good handholds, both on the left, that you can layback into position infront of the bulge, after taking your right foot out far right, but no further. It wasn't until I absentmindedly reached around and hugged the rock (in total exhaustion) did it dawn on me that I may be able to solve this with a reverse pressure move (ie palming the wall while applying opposing pressure). After establishing the correct position, I able to press up the wall. Note: this move works best for those with wing spans greater than 69 inches (5'9") since the arete is a wide bulge side to side, and happen to have small divits on either side roughly 68 inches apart that gives you good palms to apply the reverse pressure. Leverage feet the same way for 6 inches of verticle movement, that buys you a reach over the top onto a block.

I've always heard of reverse pressure, but never could fathom why you'd use the technique. Now I know.

Added: 2009-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: justhavefun on 2005-08-13 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Went left, book had this route rated much easier so direct line looked unlikely

Witnessed by: sean
Added: 2005-08-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: artm on 2004-06-29 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jorgle on 2002-04-03 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2002-04-03