A local classic that deserves more attention that it gets
8 attempts, 3 just to get the crux. Goes at 12a/b in the guidebook. I'd give it the nod at 12b. "Soft" 12a? No way. One of the most fun routes I've done at New Jack. The route deserves way more attention than it gets.
I was looking for a route to on-sight but this was not the one. The line is very contrived since features well within reach are considered "off" by the locals. I first did it using everything that was there, then when lowering off I did it with the local rules. Using everything is about 5.11c, doing it without the stuff on the right it is a soft 5.12a.