Wilbur - 5.10c

This route (called Wilburt's Turning in His Grave) is the direct arete climb. Everything leading up to the arete crux is 5.8, and if you go left around the last two bolts, it is definitely a 5.9. However, if you choose to tackle the line directly up the bolt line, it becomes a whole different story.

I struggled with the bulge.

There were only a couple of good handholds, both on the left, that you can layback into position infront of the bulge, after taking your right foot out far right, but no further. It wasn't until I absentmindedly reached around and hugged the rock (in total exhaustion) did it dawn on me that I may be able to solve this with a reverse pressure move (ie palming the wall while applying opposing pressure). After establishing the correct position, I able to press up the wall. Note: this move works best for those with wing spans greater than 69 inches (5'9") since the arete is a wide bulge side to side, and happen to have small divits on either side roughly 68 inches apart that gives you good palms to apply the reverse pressure. Leverage feet the same way for 6 inches of verticle movement, that buys you a reach over the top onto a block.

I've always heard of reverse pressure, but never could fathom why you'd use the technique. Now I know.

Went left, book had this route rated much easier so direct line looked unlikely

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