Routes : North America : United States : California : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Misbegotten
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Misbegotten - A5
Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 48
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Aid
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Wires, hooks, and Crack-N-Ups. No hammer, no pins, and don't use the chicken bolts.
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Description:
This forgotten aid route, rated 6.8 in Eric Beck's 1963 guide, is likely the hardest aid problem in San Diego County. To quote the original description: "The nailing is continuously difficult and probably none of the pitons in the first twenty five feet would hold a fall". Located in the seams left of "Empathy", it was led hammerless and solo in 1976, without the two bolts added by the late Ken Cook a few weeks earlier. As a clean aid problem, the placements are devious, bodyweight only, above a certain groundfall.
Submitted by: pywiak on 2008-04-09
Views: 889
Route ID: 28865
Most Recent Photo
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2 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | A4 |
| Safety Rating | X |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Solo ascent by:
Misbegotten
This route looked hard and it really was. I would not lead this route. I set up a fixed line and self belayed with a mini traxion and some backup knots. After the first bolt it appears that some of the old placements have broken off so to get past it I rigged 2 hooks off some funky angles and equalized them into a V. To my amazement it held long enough to get past it and onto the next hook move. No hammers allowed so it should be C4.
Added: 2010-01-17
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
X-rated aid climbing. Leading is risking death or serious injury. Use a top-rope and see what is really possible with hard clean aid.
Added: 1991-01-01
