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Misbegotten - A5

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 48
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Aid
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Wires, hooks, and Crack-N-Ups. No hammer, no pins, and don't use the chicken bolts.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty A4
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 2.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5

Description:

This forgotten aid route, rated 6.8 in Eric Beck's 1963 guide, is likely the hardest aid problem in San Diego County. To quote the original description: "The nailing is continuously difficult and probably none of the pitons in the first twenty five feet would hold a fall". Located in the seams left of "Empathy", it was led hammerless and solo in 1976, without the two bolts added by the late Ken Cook a few weeks earlier. As a clean aid problem, the placements are devious, bodyweight only, above a certain groundfall.

Submitted by: pywiak on 2008-04-09
Views: 1081
Route ID: 28865

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2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty A4
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: TYclimbOK on 2010-01-17 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Misbegotten

This route looked hard and it really was. I would not lead this route. I set up a fixed line and self belayed with a mini traxion and some backup knots. After the first bolt it appears that some of the old placements have broken off so to get past it I rigged 2 hooks off some funky angles and equalized them into a V. To my amazement it held long enough to get past it and onto the next hook move. No hammers allowed so it should be C4.

Added: 2010-01-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: pywiak on 1991-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

X-rated aid climbing. Leading is risking death or serious injury. Use a top-rope and see what is really possible with hard clean aid.

Added: 1991-01-01