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Orthanc - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.14/5 Average Rating : 3.14 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Rock
G
1 bolt
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.80/5
  Rock Quality 3.40/5
  Scenery 4.40/5
  Fun Factor 3.80/5

Description:

Slab/face. Use this ascent to set up a TR for middle finger.

Submitted by: njari on 2008-04-09
Views: 1121
Route ID: 33791

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10 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: porkchop_express on 2012-01-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars short.

not bad though, just really short. wouldnt solo it because getting down would be sketchy.

Added: 2012-05-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: brap on 2012-01-03 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars one bolt?

As mentioned below, there isn't a bolt at the top. There's a fixed pin on the opposite side but it's not something I personally would lower off of. I was getting ready to bail a stopper and someone yelled to me to use the anchor on the middle finger climb. There are 2 bolts (middle finger anchor) on the wrong face (90 degrees off), that must be threaded.

So your choices are to downclimb (not THAT bad) or clip in direct to the bolts and thread the rope. Bad setup. Like mentioned below you will groundfall from the top and the landing is a bunch of sharp boulders.

It's tempting to climb up this because it's easy and seems so cool to sit atop the middle finger. If your slab downclimbing is solid, it's no problem. Otherwise steer clear.

ONLY CLIMB THIS IF YOU ARE SETTING UP A TR ON MIDDLE FINGER. THIS IS NOT AN ACTUAL CLIMB IN ITSELF.

Added: 2012-02-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Facelyss on 2008-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars .

I roped this thinking there would be a bolt at top, but there wasn't. In fact, the protection seems kind of useless on this route. I ended up downclimbing it anyways. Just be careful.

Added: 2008-06-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: McKnight on 2008-04-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Solo on Orthanc (Down climbed)

I couldn't really enjoy this climb that much cause i did it solo. Very stupid choice, Don't do it solo. I got to the top and wanted down right away haha. The downclimb was scary, but could be done very carefully.

Added: 2008-05-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2007-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

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Added: 2007-07-04

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