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Guilty as charged - 5.10d

Average Rating = 3.57/5 Average Rating : 3.57 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.40/5
  Rock Quality 3.60/5
  Scenery 4.80/5
  Fun Factor 3.80/5

Description:

The lower section is V. easy. However the start has a pretty fun move. However, half way up, You get to this impossible smear!!!! Its like a brutal bouldering problem 30 feet up. From there its very thin hands (All Crimps baby!!) but bomber feet. Just think 6 inches at a time. Don't cheat your self and get lowered at the anchors. The real challenge in this climb is the last 6 feet and the top out. NOTE: there is a 5.9 variaton to this climb. At the ledge in the middle go to the right about 10 feet then go up and diagonally back to your left towards the anchor. I'd recommend this variation only on toprope (because of the swingout).

Submitted by: feline143 on 2005-09-09
Views: 942
Route ID: 32119

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9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mturquette on 2013-04-20 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars 5.9 variation TR

Didn't know about the 5.10d route and just followed up the others guys before me that did the 5.9 variation. Felt pretty silly walking over to the right and then working back up and the left. The start was the best part.

Added: 2013-05-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithiummetalman on 2010-01-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars up

Lipiscius = smear your feet

Added: 2010-01-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Rockshaman on 2008-10-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars last climb before sunset

description is hit the nail right on the head. starting move is pretty cool, basically an immediate mantle over an overhang. hardest part is that top 10-15 ft and it is skippable (i did both). made it back just in time to not get a 65$ ticket

Added: 2009-03-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: boulderTroll on 2007-08-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars lead!

super easy until the crimpy crux at the top.

Added: 2008-12-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Mertevinski on 2008-11-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Not a problem

I used a mantle at the crux and it seemed pretty easy to me, but maybe that's just me cheating with my awesome height advantage. Pretty fun climb.

Added: 2008-11-25

... Read all 9 ascent notes