The crux is a fun overhang about 15 feet up. Well protected by bolts, so its a pretty easy lead. You can either mantle (hard) or heel hook to the left. In any case, its a pretty fun climb. The book has it at 10a, but really the crux move is 9+. The move is pretty pumpy either way, and you just want to rush the last section. Don't!!! The last 20 feet is pretty straight forward, but you need to pay attention to your foot work.
Submitted by: caphalon on 2003-02-08
Route ID: 32118
I really enjoyed this route for it's impressive overhang. It really makes me look good when I can climb a cool overhang like that. My friends were super-impressed. But seriously, it's a fun climb. Lead this, felt completely safe the whole time. Well bolted, although the bolts might be getting a bit older (spinning hangers). The crux is the roof, for someone of my build (long) a quick jump and you can snag the huge jug up top no problem. My friends had a bit more trouble. After the crux is conquered just head on up to the top, fairly straightforward. Some interesting progressions, you should pay attention to them. There is a nice tree stump to relax on while belaying too.