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Slot Nose - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.80/5 Average Rating : 3.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Rock
2 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. Chain and rappel ring hanging from one bolt, but not the other.
35
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.25/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 3.25/5
  Fun Factor 3.75/5

Description:

Slot Nose is the rightmost route on the west side of Shady Rock. It's obvious from the topo if you have a copy of Morris's guidebook. It's about 35 feet from the ground to the anchor.

The route is short but sweet, with only two 5.8 moves. The first is right off the deck. To reach the ledge from which you clip the first bolt, either do a delicate mantle, or if you're tall, reach high for a three-finger pocket. The second tough move is some offwidth action just above the second bolt. Apply an arm bar in a "chimney" to stand on a ledge. Climbing between the two tough moves is 5.4ish.

Variation: From the first bolt, climb left, instead of right, onto steep rock. Good handholds to the left. Hug the "arete" and ascent directly to the anchor. Solid 5.8 climbing. IMO, this is more fun and sustained than the standard route.

Submitted by: mpbro on 2002-08-11
Views: 806
Route ID: 20330

9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: AddieJ on 2013-06-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Short and sweet

This was a very short route, with only a couple of real 5.8 moves. High step start confounded me for awhile, but once I got past it, the rest was smooth sailing!

Added: 2013-06-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: aliasptr on 2011-05-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Weird move before the finish

I remember little about this climb but an awkward move around a bulge to get into the slot. Very short.

Added: 2012-08-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: saltylicorice on 2011-08-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun, short

Good starting out climb. Not too bad if you can reach

Added: 2011-08-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: samantha.rose on 2009-05-07 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars good warmup

big steppup right off the bat

Added: 2009-05-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: KevinOtt on 2008-06-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Kevin

This is a great climb. Only two bolts though .. :( Other then that the first clip is a little tricky and the hanger spins. When i got to the top there were no chains or quicklinks. So i put some up.

Added: 2008-06-29

... Read all 9 ascent notes