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My Demon Lover - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad) (Toprope)
TR with double bolt anchor. It can also be led on gear with .75-2 in cams (i used a 1in and 2in for the final roof), and a few nuts in the small range for the 1st half.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


TR from highest point of the cliff up a dihedral to an 11/4" crack leading out and right under a small roof formed by a block. Kind of sketchy on lead, but makes the line far more enjoyable. Make sure to try to get a small nut (#5 BD) in before you leave the ground, could be a pretty horrific fall if you eat it on the opening moves.

Submitted by: morcomm on 2005-02-09
Last Modified: 2012-03-06
Views: 503
Route ID: 63794

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1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: alexoverhere on 2008-04-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars hard to find

this route was hard to find. we veered off (up) the ridge trail and followed a faint trail that lead the top of a cliff. we kept going for a while and found the top of another cliff. i spotted bolts on a rock 50f below us, and eventually also saw bolts directly to my right, which made us realize that we were standing on the top of voyeur.

the route's difficulty depends on the line you follow. if you purposely follow the obvious crack line up as far as you can, a 5.11a rating is merited. if you use all the features (including stemming against the wall to your right), the route feels a LOT easier. fun hand jam finish either way.

mossy/slippery slab prevents some rightward variations.

Added: 2008-04-28