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Slot Nose - 5.8
Average Rating : 3.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
2 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. Chain and rappel ring hanging from one bolt, but not the other.
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Description:
Slot Nose is the rightmost route on the west side of Shady Rock. It's obvious from the topo if you have a copy of Morris's guidebook. It's about 35 feet from the ground to the anchor.The route is short but sweet, with only two 5.8 moves. The first is right off the deck. To reach the ledge from which you clip the first bolt, either do a delicate mantle, or if you're tall, reach high for a three-finger pocket. The second tough move is some offwidth action just above the second bolt. Apply an arm bar in a "chimney" to stand on a ledge. Climbing between the two tough moves is 5.4ish.
Variation: From the first bolt, climb left, instead of right, onto steep rock. Good handholds to the left. Hug the "arete" and ascent directly to the anchor. Solid 5.8 climbing. IMO, this is more fun and sustained than the standard route.
Submitted by: mpbro on 2002-08-11
Views: 459
Route ID: 20330
8 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 8 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
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Flash ascent by:
Weird move before the finish
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
fun, short
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
good warmup
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Kevin
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| Difficulty | |
Red Point ascent by: 
Ascent Note
