As you are looking at the hand-drawn topo, Bat Crack on the formation that forms the right side of Cleavage. It is on the inside. Be VERY CAREFUL setting up top-ropes on this one. You either have to climb the Cleavage and then scramble along the top of the rock formation (which is like a knife edge) to the anchor bolts or you have to lead/free solo Bat Crack to get to the top. Either one is an eye opener
Submitted by: strider on 2004-10-05
Route ID: 60499
Pretty easy climb to the top, although it was a little scary as a free solo ascent. Once you're at the top, the bolts are on the other side. There is another set of bolts on the north side of the rock to setup a TR anchor for the cleavage as well as some webbing and a cord to rap off of. I didn't see any rap rings.
Non-spectacular, off balance crack. Didn't see the rap ring on the crack side, but set a TR with slings from the bolts on the other side of the top. Placed gear for protection - cams to 1 1/2". Wouldn't recommend soloing (although everyone seems to), the fall isn't terribly high, but the landing would be really awful.
Planned to lead it and place some pro, but once I got on it just kept going to the bolts and soloed it. It looked like it would take pro well, and I didn't see any trace of the reported bats when we were there (March).
There are 3 pairs of bolts on top. A pair above Bat Crack which can TR Bat Crack, the face climb, or the corner/roof. The 2nd set a few feet towards the chimney/Cleavage can also do the .8/.9 face routes. And then a 3rd set just above the chimney, one of which has a quick/link rap ring to escape from.