This route changed dramatically when a large block above the 5th bolt dislodged in 2001, making the original sequence from 1987 a thing of the past. However, it was discovered that you can traverse around the corner into the Sex Porpoises dihedral, and climb up the left side of the arete from there (still clipping the 6th bolt--which is now a glue-in) The grade has remained the same.
Important note: A couple of the titanium bolts "spin" slightly, and it was curiously reported in the Falcon Guide that "there are concerns about whether they are solid". Had the author bothered checking--she had my phone # and e-mail address--she would have learned that the bolts are indeed bomber, and that any concerns had been alleviated with reassurances -- long before the book went to press. Incidently, the actual rebolting--which I organized--was done by the ASCA Director, with the First-Ascentionist participating and specifying slightly different bolt placements. (to reduce rope drag) All of the new bolts are extremely bomber. Please contact Hardman Knott via PM or my website if you have any questions.
Submitted by: hardmanknott on 2004-09-17
Route ID: 27075