Starts 40 ft to the right of the Cave Route and shares the first five bolts with the West Face route. At the first cave, go left and continue up past a bolt and into a larger cave. From here, go out left (through a short crux) up a steep headwall. Continue strait up what seems to be a never ending wall. Nearly every bolt has a good stacne/rest where you clip it followed by sustained moves up holds that are hard to see. Searching around a bit before you commit to the next move usually produces a better hold or foot on this one. The topout's a bit spicy until you find the right holds (hint; go right!). A two bolt anchor awaits at the top. This route is 155 ft long almost exactly, so you need at least a 55m rope. You can break the route into two pitches by belaying from the anchors in the lower cave. Raptors use these caves for nesting every year so stay off these routes from Feb 1st throuth June 30th.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-10-11
Route ID: 80583
This is the best route in Pine Canyon that I've climbed thus far. A lot of variation and great views to match. Glad I was able to get a ascent before the Raptors start nesting. - - - note: The anchors are a bit close to the edge at the top and so you have to make belaying decisions depending upon what you're comfortable doing from the top.
This route was to be a ground up F.A. After climbing 30ft I found a line of old bolts. Oh well, lets see where they go. They follow a natural line and a good route but cut out right at a cave 80ft up. I wanted to go left up a steeper way, so I did. I kept going up and left placing bolts from stances where possible. I reached a cave and attempted to move around the corner (placed a bolt from awkward exposed position) and kept moving up. I worked the next series of moves for half an hour before giving up. I had a half botched hole drilled before pumping out and lowering. I rapped in and placed one bolt, lowered down, pulled my rope and finished the route placing the rest of the bolts on lead. Yeah, not perfect style but consedering the choss.... it was somewhat justified. A great, exposed and seriously long route. Well protected and not too chossy.