Starts 40 ft to the right of the Cave Route and climbs up past five bolts into a cave, belay here on three bolts. Exit the cave to the right and continue up and slightly to the left past another cave and bolt. Now move out right and follow the natural line. Don't worry if you don't see the bolts. You're probably still on route, they'll show up eventually. There's a large loose block about half way up you have to crawl over to avoid harder moves. It would take some prying to pull it off, but careful anyway. Follow the shallow scoop strait up past a few more bolts into a large cave near the top. Exit the cave to the left past two more bolts to the top. This route has some decent runnouts (30+ft) with most bolts being 15 ft to 20 ft apart. Though the cruxy moves have bolts near by under them, this route can still be a bit heads up. Makes for some classic heady oldschool Pine Canyon climbing.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-10-11
Route ID: 80584
Pretty unpleasant and scary. After climbing though 3 rusty spinners I reached a nice new silver bolt, I grabbed it and wiggled it and the whole bolt moved and all of the sand stone around it flexed. Pretty sure I could of pulled it out with my hands.
Didn't seem too runout to me. Interesting climbing that keeps your interest up for most of the route. Veeeeery manked bolt (with a replacement bolt next to it) halfway through the second pitch (I couldn't see the replaced bolt from below and so though I would have to skip the bolt... that would have been a runout for sure.) made for a fun head-shaking-at-a-bolt moment. The climbing helps if you have a feel for how to climb on sandstone without pulling it out because my friend was able to detach a couple of flakes and chucks in moments of overly-aggressive-holding-onto-the-rock-because-I'm-scared climbing. A great route to bring a friend of for their first multipitch due to its length and the fact that you never have to have the person out of your sight while they're climbing so you can coach them through places as needed.
The first pitch is a short well protected climb to a small cave with a three bolt anchor. The second pitch is where the excitement begins. There is one manky bolt within arms reach when leaving the cave followed by a ridiculous runout to the second bolt. If the leader falls before the second bolt I don't think the first bolt will hold much of the fall, and the leader would be looking to deck into the cave/belayer. If the leader misses the cave I'm guessing the first manky bolt will blow and the anchor will need to hold the factor 2 fall. I see this route is rated 'G' which i find ridiculous, definitely PG-13, if another bolt is added between the anchor and the second bolt this would be PG. After clipping the second bolt the rest of the bolts are of good quality and spread out, but nothing outrageous.