This route starts about 40 ft to the left of the Pillar and goes between a break in the canopy of two trees, then up the steep central face of the Pagoda. There are anchors at 100 ft but the route continues to the top and can easily be done in one pitch. Pockets, crimps, mantles and route finding is the name of the game on this one. Going strait up is not always the easiest way to the next bolt. You can easily make this route much harder than the grade. The crux comes just off the belay anchors on the second pitch. A few moves later and you're back in the more moderate range. The first pitch is 5.7 and can be toproped from the anchors with a 60m rope. Though this route has been around for more than 15 years, it was just recently bolted in the summer of 06 and could use a little trafic to clean it up.
F.A Bo Johnston, Anthony Bilotti (1990)
F.F.A Chad Suchoski (2006)
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-10-01
Route ID: 80048
Good 2 pitch climb on soft sandstone with 8 bolts on the first pitch to a bolted chain anchor, followed by 5 bolts to the top. Quality bolting. There were some very strong winds up there last night which added to the challenge...sand and lichen in the eyes. We chose to do the short rap off the back side but when we got down, we noticed the rest of the rope was flaked all over a giant poison oak bush (more like a poison oak "tree"). So if you try the same thing, just try to let the rope fall more to the left as your looking down the back side of Pagoda. Stay away from the right, that's where the poison grows. Just hoping I don't break out now. Luckily I had a tarp so I just wrapped it up and stuffed it in the pack...time to learn how to wash a rope properly. Awesome scenery at the top with views of most of the other formations in the area. It was fun.
Some loose flakey rock adds a bit of challange. All the holds are large and not far spaced, test them before you commit. All the clips have good stances where you can rest before heading to the next. This route was bolted on lead.....(mostly).