When looking uphill towards Pagoda rock, follow the water stain and crack system on the far right (front) side. This climb has the best quality sandstone in the whole canyon. Usually done in two pitches. The first pitch is a slightly runnout 5.7 face climb to bolted anchor. The second pitch is fun stemming, face climbing, finger cracks, hand jams and lie backs. One of the best climbs in the bay area.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-09-30
Route ID: 7757
The first pitch is a pure sport face climb that is well protected and can be top-roped/raped off of. If you want to climb the crack bring a set of cams .5-3 for protection. I only saw one 'bolt' protecting the crack that looked like it was made from 1/8 in tin. After the crack head right to 3 quality bolts that lead up to the 2 bolt anchor. Rap off the back after topping out.