The large chimmney just around the corner form the Pillar. Start in the chimmney to the small ledge and belay from fixed anchors here. Lie back the slightly overhanging crack or rely on awkward jams to power yourself through the crux. Stem as soon as possible then work your way through the short (wide hands) section to a finger crack in a dihedral. Once on the ledge, traverse right and up the face with good bolts for protection to the top. Three variations exist 1. climb the chossy crack (5.8) just to the right of the chimmney, to the top of the first pitch. Not as bad as it looks. 2. Once at the anchors on the first pitch, instead of climbing the crack, traverse out left onto the buttress face and climb (5.7RX) to the cave before continuing up the bolts to the top.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-09-30
Route ID: 70212