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The Unsung War - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
Chad Suchoski (2005)
Rock
Nuts: 1 set... Cams:1ea. .5-3"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

The large chimmney just around the corner form the Pillar. Start in the chimmney to the small ledge and belay from fixed anchors here. Lie back the slightly overhanging crack or rely on awkward jams to power yourself through the crux. Stem as soon as possible then work your way through the short (wide hands) section to a finger crack in a dihedral. Once on the ledge, traverse right and up the face with good bolts for protection to the top. Three variations exist 1. climb the chossy crack (5.8) just to the right of the chimmney, to the top of the first pitch. Not as bad as it looks. 2. Once at the anchors on the first pitch, instead of climbing the crack, traverse out left onto the buttress face and climb (5.7RX) to the cave before continuing up the bolts to the top.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-09-30
Views: 1383
Route ID: 70212

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3 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: OrionAgnew on 2012-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars u

u

Added: 2012-08-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: salamanizer on 2005-11-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Magnificent! A battle of mind over fear all the way to the end.

Witnessed by: Jenn Codina
Added: 2005-11-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: jenner on 2005-11-20 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Witnessed by: Chad Suchoski
Added: 2005-11-20