The book says is 10d if going right into the little chimney. BTW (very loose rock in there so watch out) and I did not have any pro with me so I had to clip the bolt and go for it coming from the chimney but stemming and using a couple of hand jams. (followed the rest of the bolted line from there) Really fun route. I'll have to try the straight up route next time I have more time. Crux the way I did it was definitely the first bolt and a few moves past that. Don't fall here.