Skip to Content

Applied Magnetics - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.25/5 Average Rating : 3.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
1 bolt. Bring a nut set and a few TCUs. 3-bolt toprope/rappel anchor.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 2.75/5
  Rock Quality 3.25/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

Obvious crack on face to the right of Rockocco. Put up by Chouinard and Bonnington in the mid-1970s. Someone has chopped several bolts at the Y, including the first bolt on this climb. That bolt appeared several years ago and no longer exists. Now you won't encounter a bolt for 60 feet. This is now (once again) a very serious lead for the grade. Interesting NOTE: the bolt at 60 feet is not part of the original route put up by Bonnington & Chouinard; rather, it's part of nearby "Brush Up Your Shakespeare" by Tom Adam. Also, this bolt is 30 years old.

Submitted by: climbingeek on 2005-09-19
Views: 1008
Route ID: 47077

14 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 14 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jayspun on 2012-07-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Applied Magnetics

No comment

Added: 2012-07-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Louie_jack6 on 2009-04-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Hell of a lead for a 5.8

I think a used a couple nuts and a couple camalots. Was real runout in one section. The top is protected by a bolt, but would still be an uncomfortable fall. I enjoyed the climb.

Added: 2009-04-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: climballnight on 2008-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars more little crimps?

they just keep coming...

Added: 2008-08-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: yarps on 2007-05-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Applied Magnetics - 5.8

HB Offset #7, #8. Metolius Astro Nut #10. Quickdraw.

Added: 2007-05-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: nukefish on 2006-06-17 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

fun route

Added: 2006-06-17

... Read all 14 ascent notes