(1) Start at a crack left of the main descent gully. Meander up the face (5.7 R), following bolts to a large pocket with bolt anchors. Make sure to angle right, it is all too easy to miss the 3 bolt anchor and head into a chossy gully to the left. BACK-CLEAN the 4th bolt after clipping into the 5th, or else you'll present your second with a serious pendulum (2) There are 3 options: a - Up and right through a 5.10a section that passes two bolts and a large hueco. Then straight up to a tree. b. (recommended) after the two bolts bear right through runout easy 4th/5th class to a well protected 5.9 section. that tops out at a tree. c. up and left from the anchor for well-protected 5.7 climbing past 2 bolts.
Submitted by: climbingeek on 2005-08-30
Route ID: 44242
Cool low angle first pitch, not-so-obvious gear, and some critical routefinding. Second pitch has a really cool hanging belay off bolts and features a bolt protected headwall with a couple thin moves straight over.
Did the direct route up to the left. 5.7ish? Very runout between bolt 3 and 4. Moving out of chimney to traverse left to bolt 4 was a bit scary and the mental crux of the climb. Found a purple cordlette at the top slung around a bolder for an anchor.