All natural, baby. Sling the horn just off the ground to protect the roof. Bring another long sling to thread through the huecos just over the roof. Bring thin nuts and small to medium cams for above.
Far and away the most diverse climb on Black Wall/Sespe Gorge. Climb straight out the cave below the platform, past the huecos and follow the seam to a belay at the largest of the smallish oaks below a roof. The harder moves out the cave can be avoided via a 5.8 lieback out the left side of the cave. Begin the second pitch from this oak and climb the roof above via one of three cracks. The leftmost crack is about 5.9 and has a couple cool, exposed moves off good hands. The crack to the right is a bit easier, and the rightmost crack is the easiest.
Submitted by: blacktotem on 2010-05-09
Route ID: 104736