Skip to Content

#02, "Danger Boy" - 5.11a

Average Rating = 3.82/5 Average Rating : 3.82 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
7 bolts, 2 cold shut anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.78/5
  Scenery 3.22/5
  Fun Factor 3.89/5

Description:

Awesome route on awesome rock! Straight up the center of the face. Boulder problem-like crux above first bolt, then .10 climbing to the top. Clipping the 6th bolt is a little spooky. A good variation for the non 11a leader: climb the first 5 bolts of Stu Boy (extending the fifth bolt) and finish up the crack towards Danger Boy's anchor (either placing a small piece of gear or extending the 7th bolt of Danger Boy). Only 5.9 and good for setting a TR.

Submitted by: climbingeek on 2005-04-04
Views: 877
Route ID: 28194

Most Recent Photo

13 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 13 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: zarrkon on 2013-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun climb

The start was surprisingly challenging

Added: 2013-06-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ilikepargo on 2012-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun Fun Fun...

Did NOT use the giant sidepull on the right. Instead, figured a sequence on some st00pidly small crimps. Didn't come close on the onsight, but nailed the redpoint second time up.

Tough crux. Great rock. Fun route.

Edit = I did this route a week ago. I'm still enjoying it. It's deceptive how good it is, because the crux is low. The top seems anti-climactic. But it really is a terrific route. Great rock. Great crux. And wonderful variety, both in holds and in moves, all the way up. As soon as I finish this sentence, I'm gonna add a star to my rating.

Added: 2012-06-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kyleht287 on 2010-10-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Best route at Wheeler

This route is great. Pretty burly V2+ boulder crux just above first bolt. Got it clean on TR after blowing the onsight. Thought that the sidepull off right was off, but it turns out it's just a squeeze job.

Added: 2010-10-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: nlklimmer on 2010-08-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Second bolt

Totally stumped after getting past the first bolt.

Added: 2010-08-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: brian.a.paden on 2010-05-11 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars fun route

balancy crux

Added: 2010-05-11

... Read all 13 ascent notes