Awesome route on awesome rock! Straight up the center of the face. Boulder problem-like crux above first bolt, then .10 climbing to the top. Clipping the 6th bolt is a little spooky. A good variation for the non 11a leader: climb the first 5 bolts of Stu Boy (extending the fifth bolt) and finish up the crack towards Danger Boy's anchor (either placing a small piece of gear or extending the 7th bolt of Danger Boy). Only 5.9 and good for setting a TR.
Submitted by: climbingeek on 2005-04-04
Route ID: 28194
Did NOT use the giant sidepull on the right. Instead, figured a sequence on some st00pidly small crimps. Didn't come close on the onsight, but nailed the redpoint second time up.
Tough crux. Great rock. Fun route.
Edit = I did this route a week ago. I'm still enjoying it. It's deceptive how good it is, because the crux is low. The top seems anti-climactic. But it really is a terrific route. Great rock. Great crux. And wonderful variety, both in holds and in moves, all the way up. As soon as I finish this sentence, I'm gonna add a star to my rating.
This route is great. Pretty burly V2+ boulder crux just above first bolt. Got it clean on TR after blowing the onsight. Thought that the sidepull off right was off, but it turns out it's just a squeeze job.