An excellent climb up knobs and dikes through the Cal Domes apron on supurb sparkleing granite. There is some spice between some bolts but all the crux moves are well protected. A must do for the Cal Domes lover.
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Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-04-26
Route ID: 99162
Finally did this thing, and took the fall you wonder about
I could see the rubber pealing off my shoes as I slid. Made a bone head move on the second pitch crux. About 15 ft above the bolt. First and second pitches sport some really huge fall potential. Probably safe falls too--at least the one I took. There isn't a knob higher than about 1/4 inch to hit. Pitch 3 has a few tough sections where you would not walk away from a fall. Beyond pitch 4, the climbing eases SLIGHTLY, but is still engaging to the very, very end. Really fun climbing. Bring a single rack to 2 inches, we used one nut on pitch 8.
OH YEA, alert. There is loose rock on the 4th pitch, and Chad says a crack holding about 100 TONS OF STONE HAS WIDENED!!
Finally climbed this thing to the top. Replaced most of the bad bolts on the way and beefed up all the anchors. Linked pitches 6 and 7 in the cottrell guide. Funky pitch that is. You head up the big headwall strait up going either right (past old bolt) and up that thin corner (good gear) or walking the thin ledge out left. Don't worry the anchors are up there. You just can't see them until you get there. The rest of the route is pretty casual. The lead bolts on pitch 8 still need replaced but the climbing is easy and you don't really need them except to stay on route.
Only went to the top of pitch 4. The fifth pitch had old bolts and looked like there was some recent rockfall. It's a shame the rest of the route has not been re-bolted. I'd love to and may still climb to the top soon. Maybe replace the bolts on my way back down.
Excellent route. The run outs are 25ft in some spots but usually on easy moves with any harder moves being just above the bolt. Pretty safe for an R rated route and a good one for the aspireing R climber.