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Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Calaveras Dome : Calaveras Dome : Karakorum highway first two pitches

Karakorum highway first two pitches - 5.11a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


From the top of Tibetian tower, traverse left into dihedral. The is a bolt high, but we found it easier and safer to traverse in low, following protectable features to a large hollow flake on edge of dihedral. Use this to turn corner into dihedral, and go up about 30 ft to a decent belay (3/4 and 3/8 inch). Pitch 2. follow dihedral through a really burly section. On your back, or on your stomach. At top of arch, bolted belay with garage hangers--solid 150 ft. Pitch three--follow dihedral past excellent fingers, to a rib pinch section with a bolt. Exit dihedral right and follow to a stance--180 ft. We ran out of time and exited right across easy ledges and up to trees. Bolted rappel station. Note: The features on this climb are as good as silk road. Just dirtier. In September, there was still one seep. Probably not a good early season route.

Descent Options:

Double rope rappels back down to Silk Road rappel

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2012-09-03
Views: 986
Route ID: 112462

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome

Felt the climbing quality was world class. Can't wait to finish the route to the top. Adds another stellar 7 pitches to Silk Road making an already super classic a world class route of 16 pitches if you link everything you can. This whole route would be twice as long as Astroman and a little harder IMO. I feel the offwidth (read awkward width) of this first pitch rated .10a is probably more like 5.10+

Added: 2012-09-05