The large sweeping arch just to the left of the Tibetan Tower (Silk Road). Climb the first pitch of Rastaman Vibrations, then climb one more pitch heading left along the left facing arch to a two bolt anchor (.10b) The next pitch is a sustained lieback that is absolutely unrelenting for over 170ft. No moves are easier than 5.10 while most are nearing 5.11 and get progressively harder as you climb up. One short rest can be found about 15ft from the anchros in a musty, tight corner before making the last traverse past a moist cruxy undercling to the anchors. A world class lieback.
Rappel with two 60m ropes straight to the ground or rappel the route.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-06-29
Route ID: 100608
Occasional stems for the first 50 ft. lull one into complacency. The middle 70 ft has just about 1 stem rest(hard to see). The feet are poor, and the layback holds vary from good to tips. I took a couple of large clean falls. After this I started floundering and Chad completed the lead. Count on a sore back after repeating the same move for 170 ft. Past the cave rest is good hands and relatively friendly moves. Save a hand (red camalot) sized piece.
Beautiful arch. Looks dirtier than it is! Really superb climbing that is pretty damn sustained. Keep climbing.. keep climbing... suttle rest... place.... climb... climb... climb... you get the point. Milk what you can but keep movin. Oddly enough there is a bolt about 3/4 up that yes... sadly i clipped, but it did allow me to heavily run it out before and after through an area with especially bad feet. Large area with bad feet. the perfect hands at the end were sent by god himself! A proud send for me!
I wouldn't say any single move is harder than 5.11, but it is pretty sustained and really long (180+ft) of the same move with bad feet and no rests. Endurance is the key to climbing this route. The pro is really good and varies a lot but is difficult to place. Better to run it out a bit and conserve energy than to sew it up. Falls are clean and the route is long so you're gonna need to conserve gear anyway, so just go for it on this one. This route is classic, exposed, hard and very asthetic.