A wild ride form start to finish. A bit of a contrived route as you climb within a stones throw of easier climbing nearly the whole way. The first pitch sets the mood for the rest of the route with fiddley thin pro that only appears just when you need it. Pitch five is one of the most asthetic pitches found anywhere in the Sierra. A sustained .10b lieback with excellent pro that keeps going and going. Pitch 10 is another note worthy pitch. It follows a perfect dihedral with finger locks that get smaller and smaller until they completely disapear and you are forced to stem and smear your way up. It looks like a tight seam with no pro, but a pocket appears about every 10 feet with solid pro right when you need it. Pitch 13 is another classic on this route that follows a horizontal dike that spits down the middle allowing protection just when you feel you might want some. This route keeps you on your toes the whole way. You have to break out your whole bag of tricks using every technique to finish this one out. Smearing, face climbing, liebacks, finger jams, hand jams, it's all here. A serious undertaking for sure, but well protected and sensible the whole way.
Rap the route with two 60m ropes or walk off the top.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2007-05-22
Route ID: 85942
Really esthetic route. Too bad I fell on the slab. 90 degree heat but OK. The slab is probably the crux, but the stem higher is close. Sustained, clean and fantastic the whole way. Good route to practice your laybacking technique.
Beautiful corners abound. The variation, length, and lack of grovel make this route stellar. Good clean hard fun. Brought my whole bag of tricks and and had to learn some new ones on the fly. Thanks sweet mistress
One hard ass route. Every pitch accept for a few are .10++ or harder. Some of the anchors are in a dumb ass spot and the bolts on pitch 8 need to be replaced (leepers) but other than that its pretty good. I felt like most of the crux pitches were over rated (grade wise)accept for the first and second pitch which I felt were under rated. Fun clean climbing, a must do on the Cal Dome cercuit.