Skip to Content

Tsunami - 5.11d

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
Jay Smith, Paul Crawford (1983)
Rock (Trad)
G
10
Cams, double to 3" especially thin. Nuts 1 set
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Approach Tsunami ledge any number of ways. From Tsunami ledge, ascend easy 5th class to a lone pine tree and belay. Pitch 2 works its way up difficult thin liebacking in a steep corner. The crux is quite reachy and obvious while the rest of the pitch is sustained but takes a wide variety of gear. Belay at two bolt anchor. Pitch 3 continues up the ever thinning corner to a short roof and bomber hand/rest. Exit from this roof to the left via thin fingers and dangleing feet. The anchor will appear out of knowhere. If you go right at the roof, you will regret it big time. Pitch 4 wanders up a headwall of knobs and spacey 1/4in bolts. Pitch 5 is more of the same as is the rest of the route. Needs rebolted as of 2010.

Descent Options:

Rappel Shaking all over or back whence you came. Two 60m ropes are needed.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2010-07-31
Views: 580
Route ID: 105962

Most Recent Photo

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2010-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars FANTASTIC ROUTE and a sand bag

11 b/c to the first anchor. Past that--? During the crux one must fiddle with small HB gear on a tips lieback without feet. A pin or two would definitely bring the difficulty down a few grades. Chad is right about the finish--have your camera out!

Added: 2011-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2010-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Thin

Amazing feature, although just a tad dirty. There are no more fixed pins but could definately use a couple as pro is very thin and difficult to place correctly. The anchors on the first few pitches are solid stainless but the remaining pitches after the arch are old rust buckets. The "kick out" move over the roof was really fun and very exposed. This is a high quality route.

Added: 2010-07-31