Approach Tsunami ledge any number of ways. From Tsunami ledge, ascend easy 5th class to a lone pine tree and belay. Pitch 2 works its way up difficult thin liebacking in a steep corner. The crux is quite reachy and obvious while the rest of the pitch is sustained but takes a wide variety of gear. Belay at two bolt anchor. Pitch 3 continues up the ever thinning corner to a short roof and bomber hand/rest. Exit from this roof to the left via thin fingers and dangleing feet. The anchor will appear out of knowhere. If you go right at the roof, you will regret it big time. Pitch 4 wanders up a headwall of knobs and spacey 1/4in bolts. Pitch 5 is more of the same as is the rest of the route. Needs rebolted as of 2010.
Rappel Shaking all over or back whence you came. Two 60m ropes are needed.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2010-07-31
Route ID: 105962
11 b/c to the first anchor. Past that--? During the crux one must fiddle with small HB gear on a tips lieback without feet. A pin or two would definitely bring the difficulty down a few grades. Chad is right about the finish--have your camera out!
Amazing feature, although just a tad dirty. There are no more fixed pins but could definately use a couple as pro is very thin and difficult to place correctly. The anchors on the first few pitches are solid stainless but the remaining pitches after the arch are old rust buckets. The "kick out" move over the roof was really fun and very exposed. This is a high quality route.