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Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Calaveras Dome : Hammer Dome : Set the Controls For the Heart of the Sun.

Set the Controls For the Heart of the Sun. - 5.11a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Paul Crawford, Karl Mc Conachie (1972)
Rock (Trad)
9 Draws.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Climbs just to the left of a black water streak up the center of the obvious large slab that makes up the left half of the dome. Pitch one starts out with about 30ft of easy climbing to a reachy knob. Grab the knob and make a sketchy mantle move onto it to clip the first bolt. This move has repelled many people. After the first clip the route turns into a full on sustained .10+/.11 route. The route seems to have a theme between bolts. Thin friction moves to a decent knob, then more thin friction to a thank god knob and the next bolt. The bolts are spaced in heady 15ft to 18ft intervals, just far enough to keep things lively. The crux section is just a bit more tightly bolted offering some relief, but not much. The second pitch starts out with thin friction to the first bolt, then becomes progressively easier as the bolts become progressively more spaced. Expect 25ft to 35ft spaces over 5.9 slab with any harder friction moves being not far above a bolt. Pitch three is more of the same but the difficulty rapidly decreases as you begin to round out the top of the slab. Expect 40ft runnouts over 5.8 slab. Pitches two and three are a welcomed cool down/relief after pitch one.

Descent Options:

Rap the route or continue up unprotected slab to the top. You can rap the route in two raps (passing the first anchor and continueing to the anchors of pitch one) with double 60m ropes.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2008-03-26
Views: 876
Route ID: 89296

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2007-09-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars High pucker factor.

Climbed the route with John Robbinson. I lead every pitch wich left my nerves pretty shot by the end of the route.
The route is despirately thin with lots of loose flakey shit. You spend half the time looking for a hold you can trust and use. I wouldn't say it's chossy by any means though. It gets better as you go up. Judging by the heavily oxidized bail biner I passed on the first bolt, I,m guessing this route doesn't see a lot of action. This is a beautuful wandering route that shoots up the center of one of the most asthetic features at Cal Domes.
Failing to make that first mantle move could possibly be fatal, but more likely just hurt..... alot. I'm almost inclined to give it an X rateing because of that damn thing.

Added: 2007-10-01