A forgettable approach pitch leads to a truly stunning right facing dihedral. Starting at the very bottom of the corner makes the route 5.8 (and dirty). Most choose to face climb out to the right for 30 feet before climbing up and joining the corner (5.7). Two-and-a-half pitches of continuous liebacking lead to a tree and the rappel slings.
Submitted by: climbingeek on 2005-08-15
Route ID: 68941
Older topo shows bolted belay in middle of lieback pitch; these are no longer there. You can traverse along the top to get to the rap anchors over Smokescreen. (May have to do a single facemove that can be hairy depending upon your comfort level on friction.)
Very nice. Clean crack. Looks intimidating but did go at 5.7 as billed I think. Going out on the face for the start means it's a little ways before you can place pro, possible pendulum. Leader also needs to think about the follower and place plenty of pro in the lie back crack to prevent too much of a pendulum for them. Too bad this pitch is not part of a longer climb.