This great route starts on a well featured face on the south face of Fresno dome just a little ways (20 yds?) past Buggery on the High Seas. If this route were in the valley it would have long lines. The first pitch starts off with a few 5.8 face moves right off the deck and then the climbing gets much easier for the next two pitches. Perfect rock and lots of big chickenheads. The 3rd pitch has a bit of runout slabby stuff but nothing too dicey. 4th pitch goes up through a 15ft hand crack that can be protected with a .75 or #1 BD cam and then some easy climbing to a ledge with lots of loose gravel and rocks. The 5th pitch goes up a right facing finger crack that can be easily protected with small/medium nuts. Good bolt anchors at each belay station.
Submitted by: fishtrap on 2007-07-25
Route ID: 87235
The route starts off well protected then moves into an easy runout with some chicken heads. The middle section has some friction slabby stuff. The last section has a short crack and a short layback. There were a few required 5.8 moves but nothing out of the ordinary. Charlie added a nice 5.9 variation to the 4th pitch and skipped the bolts. It was pretty rad. All in all this climb is a classic that requires some technique.
I've done this route about 5-6 times and it's fantastic. It's become my standard route to take out of town friends on to introduce them to the quality climbing in the area. Great rock and I've never seen another climber at Fresno Dome in about a dozen trips. With the exception of a few 5.8 moves right off the deck and one or two moves in the hand crack on pitch 4 the climbing is pretty easy the rest of the way.