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lieback (Immaculate White Book) - 5.5

Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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trad rack: small to big
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.75/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

One of the best easy trad routes you'll ever do. Right of center. Take a rather ordinary corner up to an anchor. Then traverse right over into the immaculate white book (good name, huh?). Follow it up an amazing crack. Placements galore. When you reach the book's end, swing over to the right and belay. Then finish left by traversing the mini-roof (undercling) and up the slab.

Submitted by: tslater on 2006-03-02
Views: 1299
Route ID: 74792

Most Recent Photos (See all 17 photos)

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: kalen666 on 2012-12-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars NICE

Killer Climb, the crux was easy to pull but the scare factor of leading it makes it seem way harder.

Added: 2012-12-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sclaussen on 2009-05-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Immaculate White Book Ascent

I just lead this route over the weekend and I thought it was a great route. However, I am a new leader and I did think that 5.5 was a little bit of a sandbagged rating - it's harder than that - so beware if you're a new leader. I made it fine, but it was challenging. I found that it took a lot of smaller (< BD#1) protection - and the anchor takes smaller protection as well - so rack accordingly. There are no bolts at the first belay station and it only supports two people at a time. The first pitch crux is 75% of the way through the pitch where the lieback crack disappears for 3 to 5 feet. I followed on the second pitch - it has a similar crux - that's more difficult than the first crux - where the lieback crack disappears for 5 feet or so. On the 2nd pitch we went straight up then left on the undercling and then up a crack to top out. One of my climbing partners who lead the 2nd pitch felt it was more difficult than pitch 2 - particularly placing pro while traversing the undercling. We were told we could walk off the right side - but it looked like dicey class 4 - so we decided to rappel. There are two relatively new rappel bolts/chains at the top of pitch 2 that get you down to another couple bolts/chains near the top of pitch 1. The granite quality here is excellent.

Added: 2009-05-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: kernvilleclimber on 2008-03-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great climb

Can't wait to learn to place gear so I can lead this myself. I thought it was a bit more difficult than 5.5 though.

Added: 2008-10-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: Kernclimber on 2008-04-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Lieback

Nice route. Climbed it solo(self belay), trad, single pitch. Best to rappel on the far left to avoid rope getting caught.

Added: 2008-04-23