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Fancy Free - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (20)
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Standard free climbing rack.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.60/5
  Rock Quality 4.40/5
  Scenery 4.60/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

A fantastic and beautiful line. A must do classic. Begin this climb on darker rock in the middle of the face. The right angling crack of the first pitch is very obvious. The first pitch ends on a small ledge to the right of the crack. The second pitch is an immaculate splitter finger and hand crack. The pitch ends at some bolts on your left. The third pitch is easy and short. It ends atop of the pillar that is the OW section of Spooky. The fourth pitch is really fun and heads right to the top.

Submitted by: rmiller on 2002-06-05
Views: 1493
Route ID: 18293

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20 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: leoand23 on 2016-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Intimidating crux

Linked P1-P2 (I led) with a 70m then moved over to finish on Spooky (Greg led).
First portion of P1 felt awkward. The crux near the top have a flared thin moves at the top. I was one move away from getting the on-sight, but ran out of stem an had to hang. Perhaps is best to climb P1 and P2 separate to conserve energy if climbing near your limit.

Added: 2016-09-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2012-07-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of the absolute best

A sandbag at 10 B though.

Added: 2012-07-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: nkane on 2011-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Wooo

Great crack. First pitch is kind of lame; some loose and dirty crap. Took a healthy whip at the crux.

Last pitch is alpinish and awesome.

Added: 2011-08-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Principia on 2007-08-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great intro to Needles Climbing

The finger crack was absolutely incredible! It's hard to find a crack like that at the grade...Sweet Climb!

Added: 2008-12-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: JAGWire on 2000-06-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fabulous!

Evry pitch is great. A must do.

Added: 2008-08-21

... Read all 20 ascent notes