Skip to Content

Broomsticks - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
Premier Sponsor:
P1 - Up to 3", the remaining pitches are slinging knobs and the occasional bolt.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Amazing climb on the south face (left of Love Potion #9) with a variety of climbing. P1a start up a 5.9 bolted line left of wide groove. This pitch is called "Danse Macabre". Original line - P1b (5.10a), start up the wide groove, then P2 - follow a line of bolts with the occasional knobs to sling. Small pro is handy for the upper part of this pitch. P3 - rarely done, long runouts, with occasional pro and slung knob make this 5.8 finish exciting to say the least.

Submitted by: mreardon on 2004-03-18
Views: 885
Route ID: 50183

6 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 6 ascent notes

  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2003-07-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Brilliant, heady climb

My favorite memory of the Needles is tossing a rope down from the top of Love Potion to someone who had lost his nerve at the crux of this climb. He promptly went to go top rope Pyromania--freakin sport climbers!

Added: 2008-07-28

  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kai_da_klimba on 2004-06-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun and exposed

went off route for hard and scary climbing and a fall
the final is a must do if you have the head for it

Added: 2007-05-23

Onsight Onsight ascent by: bones on 2004-06-04 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Definitely some "DO NOT FALL" sections.

Added: 2004-06-04

Onsight Onsight ascent by: tim on 2004-05-31 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Art led the second pitch, I led the first. Very exciting, kind of serious, but a great route. Be solid at the grade before you hop on this!

Witnessed by: maculated artm
Added: 2004-05-31

  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Flash Flash ascent by: artm on 2004-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-05-30

... Read all 6 ascent notes