Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Needles : Sorcerer's Apprentice : Broomsticks
Broomsticks - 5.10a
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Rock
P1 - Up to 3", the remaining pitches are slinging knobs and the occasional bolt.
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Description:
Amazing climb on the south face (left of Love Potion #9) with a variety of climbing. P1a start up a 5.9 bolted line left of wide groove. This pitch is called "Danse Macabre". Original line - P1b (5.10a), start up the wide groove, then P2 - follow a line of bolts with the occasional knobs to sling. Small pro is handy for the upper part of this pitch. P3 - rarely done, long runouts, with occasional pro and slung knob make this 5.8 finish exciting to say the least.
Submitted by: mreardon on 2004-03-18
Views: 202
Route ID: 50183
6 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 6 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Brilliant, heady climb
My favorite memory of the Needles is tossing a rope down from the top of Love Potion to someone who had lost his nerve at the crux of this climb. He promptly went to go top rope Pyromania--freakin sport climbers!
Added: 2008-07-28
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by:
fun and exposed
went off route for hard and scary climbing and a fall
the final is a must do if you have the head for it
the final is a must do if you have the head for it
Added: 2007-05-23
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
Ascent Note
Definitely some "DO NOT FALL" sections.
Added: 2004-06-04
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| Difficulty | |
Ascent Note
Art led the second pitch, I led the first. Very exciting, kind of serious, but a great route. Be solid at the grade before you hop on this!
Witnessed by: maculated artm
Added: 2004-05-31
Added: 2004-05-31
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2004-05-30
