Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Needles : The Sorcerer : Don Juan Wall
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Don Juan Wall - 5.11b
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Rock
Standard free rack with double aliens or TCU's.
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Description:
A brilliant line just left of Thin Ice. Fantastic climbing over 6-pitches. Pitch 1 is the same as Thin Ice, but traverse left at the top of the intial 5.9 flake. The second pitch is crux 1. Head up the crack, over the bulge, through the flaring crux and to the belay. Pitch 3 is crux 2, a nasty flaring slot with devious and difficult pro. Pitch 4 and 5 can be combined and is a wonderful pitch. On pitch six head right, do not be fooled and head up the OW above the belay. Head right, stem out, and undercling an overhanging corner. Small aliens are your pro. Then head up and right to the top. 2 60m raps.
Submitted by: bellatoris on 2003-07-08
Views: 312
Route ID: 18295
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14 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 14 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
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| Scenery |  |
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Onsight ascent by:
great route
More physical then Atlantis. Nearly injured my shoulder on the last pitch when my foot slipped after I got the good hand jamb at the end of the roof traverse on the last pitch. didn't fall, but could only climb easier stuff for a few days.
oh yeah, if you don't like rope drag, place a large stopper at the lip of the traverse.
Felt harder then Atlantis, but I had to take a huge poop all day so....
oh yeah, if you don't like rope drag, place a large stopper at the lip of the traverse.
Felt harder then Atlantis, but I had to take a huge poop all day so....
Added: 2008-09-14
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
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| Fun Factor | |
fantastic
I found the flaring third pitch the crux too. There are two methods. The strong guy pinching arete method, and the knee and arm bar creeping thrutch.
Added: 2008-07-23
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fun
Did it in three pitches. Thought the third pitch was harder than the locker fingers (crux) pitch. Roof at the top was cool.
Added: 2008-06-22
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Hang Dog ascent by:
Ascent Note
Sustained climbing for 4 long pitches.
Added: 2005-09-03
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Ascent Note
One hang on the 3rd pitch when I couldn't see gear ahead. I leaned back and saw hand holds instead and fired for the anchor. Am I a giant raving pussy? Yes... I should have gone for it!
Witnessed by: ihuang
Added: 2005-09-03
Added: 2005-09-03
