Skip to Content

Don Juan Wall - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Standard free rack with double aliens or TCU's.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

A brilliant line just left of Thin Ice. Fantastic climbing over 6-pitches. Pitch 1 is the same as Thin Ice, but traverse left at the top of the intial 5.9 flake. The second pitch is crux 1. Head up the crack, over the bulge, through the flaring crux and to the belay. Pitch 3 is crux 2, a nasty flaring slot with devious and difficult pro. Pitch 4 and 5 can be combined and is a wonderful pitch. On pitch six head right, do not be fooled and head up the OW above the belay. Head right, stem out, and undercling an overhanging corner. Small aliens are your pro. Then head up and right to the top. 2 60m raps.

Submitted by: bellatoris on 2003-07-08
Views: 929
Route ID: 18295

Most Recent Photos

15 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 15 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: glahhg on 2012-08-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars :)

Way physical. Scotty hauled my ass up this thing.

Added: 2012-08-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bandidopeco on 2008-09-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great route

More physical then Atlantis. Nearly injured my shoulder on the last pitch when my foot slipped after I got the good hand jamb at the end of the roof traverse on the last pitch. didn't fall, but could only climb easier stuff for a few days.

oh yeah, if you don't like rope drag, place a large stopper at the lip of the traverse.

Felt harder then Atlantis, but I had to take a huge poop all day so....

Added: 2008-09-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2008-07-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fantastic

I found the flaring third pitch the crux too. There are two methods. The strong guy pinching arete method, and the knee and arm bar creeping thrutch.

Added: 2008-07-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2008-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun

Did it in three pitches. Thought the third pitch was harder than the locker fingers (crux) pitch. Roof at the top was cool.

Added: 2008-06-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ihuang on 2005-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Sustained climbing for 4 long pitches.

Added: 2005-09-03

... Read all 15 ascent notes