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Ice Pirates - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.80/5 Average Rating : 4.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Needles rack xtra 2" - 2.5". First pitch is long, second pitch is less than 100'
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.75/5
  Rock Quality 4.75/5
  Scenery 4.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.75/5

Description:

Same first pitch as Thin Ice until the point where Thin Ice moves right. At this point continue straight up to a bolted belay. Avast ye mateys for the next pitch of sustained 5.11 crack up to another bolted belay. The crux is probably easier than 11b but the leader won't think so (pro is a challange to set)

Submitted by: johnr9q on 2004-08-16
Views: 966
Route ID: 48091

8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-07-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Must-do

This route is awesome. I think the bolt is, technically, to protect a traverse back to Thin Ice (which explains why it's so far to the right). I put a long runner on it and was glad to have the peace of mind, but the gear at that point is really good, too. You will take a long but safe fall if you come off at the top. There are two methods at the anchors: step high (balancey and graceful) or go low (thuggish and ugly).

Added: 2009-12-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Principia on 2007-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great variation to Thin Ice

Others have mentioned the micro nut placements behind the thin flake and the last "thank god" move of the climb. Well, I fell at that "thank god" move and my pro pulled out of that flake only to be stopped by the one and only bolt on the root...I'd say about a 40 foot whipper. Got back on and finished though. Great sustained climbing!

Added: 2008-12-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2008-07-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars another outstanding route

I found the grade soft, and thought the pro was easy, except, slotting a medium nut behind the somewhat fragile flake at the top. After that, go for it, the holds get better. I'd rate the pro PG becuase of the top

Added: 2008-07-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2008-06-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Thin

First pitch was just fun. Second was thin and really hard to place pro. Bring extra "offset" micro nuts and small cams to .3 in. The last move is more of a "thank god" move, but really cool and wild.

...and this is definately not a "breaking into .11" route.

Added: 2008-06-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kai_da_klimba on 2006-07-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars sweet

sweet line, and very nice, interesting and technical climbing on the second pitch. A good one to break into the 11s at the Needles with bolted stations and only two pitches.

Added: 2007-05-24

... Read all 8 ascent notes