Same first pitch as Thin Ice until the point where Thin Ice moves right. At this point continue straight up to a bolted belay. Avast ye mateys for the next pitch of sustained 5.11 crack up to another bolted belay. The crux is probably easier than 11b but the leader won't think so (pro is a challange to set)
Submitted by: johnr9q on 2004-08-16
Route ID: 48091
This route is awesome. I think the bolt is, technically, to protect a traverse back to Thin Ice (which explains why it's so far to the right). I put a long runner on it and was glad to have the peace of mind, but the gear at that point is really good, too. You will take a long but safe fall if you come off at the top. There are two methods at the anchors: step high (balancey and graceful) or go low (thuggish and ugly).
Others have mentioned the micro nut placements behind the thin flake and the last "thank god" move of the climb. Well, I fell at that "thank god" move and my pro pulled out of that flake only to be stopped by the one and only bolt on the root...I'd say about a 40 foot whipper. Got back on and finished though. Great sustained climbing!
I found the grade soft, and thought the pro was easy, except, slotting a medium nut behind the somewhat fragile flake at the top. After that, go for it, the holds get better. I'd rate the pro PG becuase of the top