Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Needles : The Sorcerer : Ice Pirates
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Ice Pirates - 5.11b
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Rock
Needles rack xtra 2" - 2.5". First pitch is long, second pitch is less than 100'
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Description:
Same first pitch as Thin Ice until the point where Thin Ice moves right. At this point continue straight up to a bolted belay. Avast ye mateys for the next pitch of sustained 5.11 crack up to another bolted belay. The crux is probably easier than 11b but the leader won't think so (pro is a challange to set)
Submitted by: johnr9q on 2004-08-16
Views: 251
Route ID: 48091
7 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 7 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
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Red Point ascent by:
Great variation to Thin Ice
Others have mentioned the micro nut placements behind the thin flake and the last "thank god" move of the climb. Well, I fell at that "thank god" move and my pro pulled out of that flake only to be stopped by the one and only bolt on the root...I'd say about a 40 foot whipper. Got back on and finished though. Great sustained climbing!
Added: 2008-12-17
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by:
another outstanding route
I found the grade soft, and thought the pro was easy, except, slotting a medium nut behind the somewhat fragile flake at the top. After that, go for it, the holds get better. I'd rate the pro PG becuase of the top
Added: 2008-07-23
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
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Thin
First pitch was just fun. Second was thin and really hard to place pro. Bring extra "offset" micro nuts and small cams to .3 in. The last move is more of a "thank god" move, but really cool and wild.
...and this is definately not a "breaking into .11" route.
...and this is definately not a "breaking into .11" route.
Added: 2008-06-22
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
sweet
sweet line, and very nice, interesting and technical climbing on the second pitch. A good one to break into the 11s at the Needles with bolted stations and only two pitches.
Added: 2007-05-24
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Ascent Note
Kicked my ____. 3 tries with much dogging and some french freeing, then was able to climb the entire 11b pitch clean after two days rest.
Added: 1998-08-08
