Dead vertical fingers-to-hands-to-flare. Eat your wheaties and get to the base by 10am or you'll freeze when the Sorceror goes into the shade and the wind kicks up.
You can do this in two pitches with a 60m rope. Do the regular first pitch and then stretch it to the tree at the top (and manage your gear or you'll run out).
2 ropes (or 1 70M) needed for the rap (chains).
Submitted by: ergophobe on 2002-07-13
Route ID: 16024
Good fingers first pitch with a slight pump at the top. Most people seem to say that the beginning of the second pitch is difficult (flared chimney thing), although getting established in the chimney off the belay is a little tricky I thought it was pretty standard after that.
This is a great route, and is (very) easy to protect - good for someone (like me) thats still not 100% secure trad-leading 10s. We used my 70m rope and linked P2+P3. I led & onsighted the first pitch, but blew it on the second - had to hang removing aided-on pro as I followed. In late September the afternoon temp wasn't too cold. Our guidebook says this is 10b. There was a move on the crux that felt like 10d (smear then high step off a decent fingerlock & crappy handjam) - but maybe thats just because I'm short. Definitely had a 'I might fall doing this' moment.