Skip to Content

Thin Ice - 5.10b popular

Average Rating = 4.64/5 Average Rating : 4.64 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (33)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Cams or TCUs, take doubles to about 2.5". Bring nuts (both kinds) but you'll want cams.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.20/5
  Rock Quality 4.90/5
  Scenery 4.60/5
  Fun Factor 4.40/5

Description:

Dead vertical fingers-to-hands-to-flare. Eat your wheaties and get to the base by 10am or you'll freeze when the Sorceror goes into the shade and the wind kicks up. You can do this in two pitches with a 60m rope. Do the regular first pitch and then stretch it to the tree at the top (and manage your gear or you'll run out). 2 ropes (or 1 70M) needed for the rap (chains).

Submitted by: ergophobe on 2002-07-13
Views: 2044
Route ID: 16024

Most Recent Photos

33 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 33 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: leoand23 on 2016-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route

Done in two pitches with a 70m.
Crux was definitely getting started on the chimney. I was glad I was wearing knee-pads for a solid knee/arm bar aproach. (First pitch was the best part)

Added: 2016-09-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: nkane on 2011-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars hard

but great. shamelessly aided through the flare/chimney due to impending darkness. Stout as shit at the grade, like everything at the Needles. Also like everything at the Needles, totally fantastic.



Added: 2011-08-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: burtonbc on 2008-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Thin Ice

Good fingers first pitch with a slight pump at the top. Most people seem to say that the beginning of the second pitch is difficult (flared chimney thing), although getting established in the chimney off the belay is a little tricky I thought it was pretty standard after that.

Added: 2010-04-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Jnclk on 2009-10-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars led with ice in the crack

17 degrees F in the am. Hands were numb after 20 feet of climbing. Pitch two is a bit tricky. You can rap with one 60m rope and some downclimbing.

Added: 2009-10-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2009-09-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Takes good pro

This is a great route, and is (very) easy to protect - good for someone (like me) thats still not 100% secure trad-leading 10s. We used my 70m rope and linked P2+P3. I led & onsighted the first pitch, but blew it on the second - had to hang removing aided-on pro as I followed. In late September the afternoon temp wasn't too cold. Our guidebook says this is 10b. There was a move on the crux that felt like 10d (smear then high step off a decent fingerlock & crappy handjam) - but maybe thats just because I'm short. Definitely had a 'I might fall doing this' moment.

Added: 2009-10-13

... Read all 33 ascent notes