Redpointed on Sept 16, 2007. Below are my previous notes.
Pulled some pro falling on the pitch 4 mantle, including the last piton. The resulting 30(+?)' whipper shook me up and my partner took over most of the leading. In short, I was a little bitch. A #6 HB offset works GREAT right under the mantle.
Need to work on my fingertip campusing for pitch 5. The Book of Deception pitch will be a bitch to redpoint. I TR'd it clean first try, but leading it is another story since the gear is so tricky with a ledge under it. Nuts appear to work great for this pitch.
Gear: One set of RPs One set of HB offsets One set of Medium nuts Ballnuts 2-4 1 000 C3 1 00 metolius TCU 2 0 TCU 4 1 TCU (5 wouldn't hurt) 3 2 TCU 2 3 TCU 1 0.5 C4 2 0.75 C4 1 1 C4 Bring #2 and #3 size if you can't run it out on easy territory. I didn't set either of them on any of the first four pitches and it stays thin after the first two pitches. You could use a #2 camalot on the Book of Deception, but it looks like a smaller cam would work just as well. (Post redpoint edit: If you're strong don't bring one of the #1 Metolius the ballnuts or the 00 Metolius).
I had been on this route six years ago and taken a bad fall due to a missing pin on the second 12a crux. A couple of weeks ago I went back and fired all the pitches first go. I redpointed to my previous highpoint and then onsighted the 12.b pitch and the 11.d pitch by headlamp. We topped out in the dark and rapped the route. I don't recommend rapping this route.