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Romantic Warrior - 5.12b

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Pro to 3"; bring heavy on the small cams, nuts, and brass. The three inch piece is only utilized on
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

An incredible corner system! Aside from somewhat flaky rock here and there...the climbing is stellar. Being quite comfortable at stemming and placing micro gear is a plus on this route.

Submitted by: phoenix on 2005-10-24
Views: 1860
Route ID: 71140

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ascanio on 2007-06-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Amazing route

w/ Hristo

Added: 2007-06-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bandycoot on 2007-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars It was fun trying!

Redpointed on Sept 16, 2007. Below are my previous notes.

Pulled some pro falling on the pitch 4 mantle, including the last piton. The resulting 30(+?)' whipper shook me up and my partner took over most of the leading. In short, I was a little bitch. A #6 HB offset works GREAT right under the mantle.

Need to work on my fingertip campusing for pitch 5. The Book of Deception pitch will be a bitch to redpoint. I TR'd it clean first try, but leading it is another story since the gear is so tricky with a ledge under it. Nuts appear to work great for this pitch.

Gear:
One set of RPs
One set of HB offsets
One set of Medium nuts
Ballnuts 2-4
1 000 C3
1 00 metolius TCU
2 0 TCU
4 1 TCU (5 wouldn't hurt)
3 2 TCU
2 3 TCU
1 0.5 C4
2 0.75 C4
1 1 C4
Bring #2 and #3 size if you can't run it out on easy territory. I didn't set either of them on any of the first four pitches and it stays thin after the first two pitches. You could use a #2 camalot on the Book of Deception, but it looks like a smaller cam would work just as well. (Post redpoint edit: If you're strong don't bring one of the #1 Metolius the ballnuts or the 00 Metolius).

Added: 2007-05-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: phoenix on 2005-10-18 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I had been on this route six years ago and taken a bad fall due to a missing pin on the second 12a crux. A couple of weeks ago I went back and fired all the pitches first go. I redpointed to my previous highpoint and then onsighted the 12.b pitch and the 11.d pitch by headlamp. We topped out in the dark and rapped the route. I don't recommend rapping this route.

Witnessed by: Andrew Philbin
Added: 2005-10-18