A brilliant line and a must do. Every pitch is fantastic. Begin this climb where a small roof is just off the deck. Climb up to the roof and clip a bad Knife Blade hammered straight up (maybe gone - it is gone). Then head right to a bolt. This is the scariest part of the climb. The second pitch is brilliant as you climb the corner, arete, and face for about 90 feet. The third pitch is a short 5.8. The fourth pitch is also brilliant and climbs a long thin hands and hands corner over several tiny roofs. The last pitch is alos easy. (this climb can be done as 3 pitchs with a 60m rope. First pitch is a ful 60m and second pitch requires 5m of simul climbing)
Submitted by: johnr9q on 2004-08-16
Route ID: 18300
First pitch is dicey, long way up to the first bolt on slab. Second pitch is definitely the crux (and sandbagged), honestly the first time I did this climb I fell 4 times in the middle of the second pitch. The crack in the corner peters out to practically nothing for about 15', The top edge of the corner and the face are slicker than slick, so move quickly and make sure you do it in the shade. The rest of the climb is much easier but enduro. Great climb.
Climbed it in three pitches. First pitch past the crux to a small ledge, second pitch in one long 60m pitch to a good ledge above a block and third pitch directly up to the top staying left over the bulge instead of going out right where everyone else goes.