Skip to Content

Spook Book - 5.10d

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Standard free rack with extra small nuts and aliens.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

A brilliant line and a must do. Every pitch is fantastic. Begin this climb where a small roof is just off the deck. Climb up to the roof and clip a bad Knife Blade hammered straight up (maybe gone - it is gone). Then head right to a bolt. This is the scariest part of the climb. The second pitch is brilliant as you climb the corner, arete, and face for about 90 feet. The third pitch is a short 5.8. The fourth pitch is also brilliant and climbs a long thin hands and hands corner over several tiny roofs. The last pitch is alos easy. (this climb can be done as 3 pitchs with a 60m rope. First pitch is a ful 60m and second pitch requires 5m of simul climbing)

Submitted by: johnr9q on 2004-08-16
Views: 1057
Route ID: 18300

15 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 15 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.1
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: burtonbc on 2009-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Spook Book (aka) welcome to the needles.

First pitch is dicey, long way up to the first bolt on slab. Second pitch is definitely the crux (and sandbagged), honestly the first time I did this climb I fell 4 times in the middle of the second pitch. The crack in the corner peters out to practically nothing for about 15', The top edge of the corner and the face are slicker than slick, so move quickly and make sure you do it in the shade. The rest of the climb is much easier but enduro. Great climb.

Added: 2010-04-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: JAGWire on 1996-06-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Stellar

Lead 10b P1 - scary!!!
seconded both 10d pitches.

Added: 2008-08-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sustained Fun

First pitch is the scariest, in my opinion. There were some fixed nuts in the thin parts.

Added: 2008-07-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2008-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun

Climbed it in three pitches. First pitch past the crux to a small ledge, second pitch in one long 60m pitch to a good ledge above a block and third pitch directly up to the top staying left over the bulge instead of going out right where everyone else goes.

Added: 2008-06-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kai_da_klimba on 2006-07-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars brilliant, technical, commiting

great sustained climbing
ripped a fixed nut on p2
p3 is harder than 5.8
a ballnut can be used where the piton used to be


Added: 2007-05-24

... Read all 15 ascent notes