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The Pit and the Pendulum - 5.10d

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Standard Needles rack plus some big gear. A #3 big bro worked decently in the OW.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

A classic climb on the Witch sporting a hard offwidth (the Pit?) or a pendulum variation. Approach by hiking to a large 200 foot tall flake leaning against the Witch below an enormous corner system. P1) A wonderful 60 meter pitch to the top of the flake with sustained 5.8 and 5.9 liebacking. P2) Easy pitch up to ledges below the huge corner. P3) Traverse under the roof to gain the corner system, which is climbed to a bolted belay (awesome 5.10). From here one can do a pendulum to cracks to the left or rappel. We choose to continue to line through the OW above: P4) Burly offwidth climbing (10++, crux) up the corner. 10 feet of the OW is particularly difficult, featuring chickenwinging and buttjams. Much of the rest can be climbed creatively with thin pro behind chockstones in the chimney. P5) short easy pitch to the top.

Submitted by: jcinco on 2004-06-14
Views: 1005
Route ID: 54442

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-07-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Something different...

We did this in 3 pitches, climbing Phosphorescent Flow (5.10 R) instead of the big corner, then a short easy pitch to the base of the corner, then a pendulum and out to the top. The pendulum is kind of freaky, but my suggestion is to sling the big horn to protect the crux move, then dislodge the sling once you're above it, so as to prevent nasty drag.

Added: 2008-07-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kai_da_klimba on 2005-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars p1 is classic

a sweet and beautiful layback
I disagree with anyone who says the first pitch in the big corner is classic. hardly worth it, esp. considering what else is near
didn't do the pit

Added: 2007-05-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: baja_java on 2006-07-09 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

P3, just that. had thought possible to cut between the Witch and Necromancer to get to The Spell on Warlock, but ended up roping up for a knobby face and easy 5th class above that landed us at the base of P3 of Pit and Pendulum, .9 lieback to .10b fingers up narrowing jagged dihedral crack, through two roofs. strenuous and fun, well worth the adventure

Witnessed by: tim
Added: 2006-07-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: jcinco on 2004-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Couldn't free a short section of the OW. Burly lead, Brian!!

Added: 2004-06-07