This is the lieback crack to the right of Yellow Brick Road and unjustifiably receives very little attention, but is very fun and exhilarating climbing that tests your lie-back endurance. Never is the climbing exceptionally difficult...just a little bold. Start at large tree after the descent chimney in the Charlatan/Djin notch. Pitch 1 is a left leaning flake that takes gear to about 4". Follow this for 40 feet until it ends. Continue on the face trending leftward aiming for the large right-facing crack/flake using small gear and slung knobs for protection until you are at the base of an obvious right facing finger/hand crack that widens to 6". Belay from from here. For pitch two, get ready for an exciting amount of lie-backing. Lie-back the large right-facing crack for about 100 ft until you come to the large ledge shared by Yellow Brick Road (no protection for the last 40 ft). Finish to the top of the Wizard Needle via the last pitch of Yellow Brick Road. Exciting Needles Climbing!
Short 60' rappel off slings at the top of the wizard to a set of anchors then a second 180' rappel to the base of the wizard. Alternatively, rappel past the anchors to a small gully and another set of slings about 80' from the base. The first method req
Submitted by: Principia on 2009-06-03
Route ID: 99802