Start about 20 feet to the right of a mid-sized pine tree, or 200 feet to the right of a big pine tree.. P1 (5.7, 160 ft): The first pitch has a bit of vegetation. Head up. P2 (5.6/5.7, 70 ft): Move around and to the right, then up a short ways, and set up a belay at the fork with a broken terrace on the left, and a channel on the right. P3 (5.8, 160 ft) Go up the channel on the right, past a small ledge, cutting up and curving back around to the left. P4. P5. P6 (5.9): Take the steep, right facing, dirty dihedral. Climbing onto exposed face makes the climbing a bit easier.
P7 (5.8, 160 ft):
P8 (5.9, 150 ft): Take the right facing finger crack with black lichen up to a set of plants. Set some good pro, and use the plants as faceholds for 15' and climb up into a little alcove.
P9 (5.7): A couple stemming moves, then up onto 3rd class climbing.
Actually, there is a bit of vegetation throughout the route, and some of the rock is of dubious quality, but it manages to afford some fantastic climbing continuously at the grade. The rating is consistent with other sources, but this area tends to be a bit stiff.
Take a good look at the throat of the Watchtower for some fantastic views. There is trail on the slope across from the summitpeak of watchtower. Catch up with trail, and take Pear Lake Trail back down to Lodgepole campground (3.2 miles).
Submitted by: Einstein on 2008-09-15
Route ID: 95969