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Seriously Old School - 5.11d

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
Premier Sponsor:
Doug Madara, Sam Davidson - 2000
Rock (Trad)
tiny to #4 Camalot (1); several hand-size cams and many stoppers; long slings
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating (Not Rated)
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


1st pitch: The excellent hand crack near the NE corner, down and right from Acorn - 5.9. Belay on good ledge with rap anchors. 2nd pitch: Move right under flakes to the prow of the NE corner, then straight up past face moves into a dihedral with a thin, intermittent crack. This outstanding, sustained pitch is the route's crux -- getting established in the dihedral is 5.11+, and the corner above requires creative movement and small wires for pro. 3rd pitch: Lieback or jam a wide crack (#4 Camalot) in a small corner - 5.8. 4th pitch: Move up, then traverse right across slabs to a tricky move to a belay stance - 5.7. 5th pitch: Wander to the summit - easy 5th.

Descent Options:

Walk off ridge to the West, then contour the Shuteye Creek drainage to the lookout road.

Submitted by: sambark on 2011-05-03
Views: 310
Route ID: 108579