Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 20
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Cams, stoppers, and hexes to under 2 inches. Two bolts on the last pitch, which then gets easy run out.
Approach from the descent gully between the beginner slabs and Hippo wall. Walk left along the base under Hippo Wall to the Turret. Past the Turret keep walking along the base of the cliff and do not follow the trail down away from the wall. To the left of the Turret is Amphitheater Layback, a short, right facing book and then Friday the Thirteenth. The next route to the left is Art Baker Memorial. This area is a bit above and a fair bit to the right of the "upper traverse" route. While most of Tollhouse crack systems lean to the left as you face them, this one is more straight up/slightly right leaning. First pitch is short, up the crack to a nice ledge with bolts. Second pitch is longer, again up the crack to a bolted stance. Third pitch is 5.5 face climbing, two bolts then nothing until you're to the belay. Set some cams for the final belay.
Most climbers follow the route to the summit, but you could rappel from the first belay and maybe from the second.
Submitted by: donald949 on 2009-02-03
Route ID: 86484
The runout is all good until you have ground fall potential while climbing over and onto a loose chunk/ledge. Then about 4 feet later you get your first good pro. Beginners delight felt easier than this and was way more enjoyable. Looked like there was a huge missile ready to go on the second pitch, but didn't climb that. The 2nd pitch also looked dirty.
The first pitch is a little dirty and the pro will hold bodyweight only. Once you pass the tree growing out of the crack the ground fall potential is huge due to the crappy protection. The hands and feet are great so don't f**k it up or you will hit the deck! Everything is run out on this climb. I love it!