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Tollhouse Traverse - 5.5 popular

Average Rating = 3.94/5 Average Rating : 3.94 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 10
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (19)
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Rock (Trad)
G
trad with a couple bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.44/5
  Rock Quality 4.19/5
  Scenery 3.88/5
  Fun Factor 4.12/5

Description:

easy and fun trad climb with easy pro placements to 3". 4-5 pitches. You can walk up to the left after the fourth pitch or continue up for a fifth.

Submitted by: fng on 2009-02-03
Views: 2360
Route ID: 71435

Most Recent Photos (See all 11 photos)

19 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 19 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Fresnoandy on 2010-05-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun

Someone has recently improved/groomed the approach trail--still a bit of a bush-wack... Did it with a 69 year old philosopher who flew up behind and flashed the second pitch--Awesome Bas!

Added: 2010-05-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: QuickDrawMcGraw on 2009-06-13 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars easy

fun trad pratice

Added: 2009-08-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sclaussen on 2009-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Traverse Ascent

I'm a new leader - this was my fourth multi-pitch lead - and I highly recommend the route - it was very enjoyable. We didn't start until 1PM, the route is west facing, so it was very hot, particularly pitch #1. The route eats up protection from very small to my BD #4. The descent approach is not a problem if you have good beta - I've added a photo that outlines the upper half of the descent. We did 4 pitches - the first 3 are the majority of the climb and all are interesting in their own way. The first pitch has 3 bolts/hangers on it about 75% of the way up the route. The first belay station isn't the most comfortable one, but each belay station along the entire route has two hangers. The crux is on the 3rd pitch where you have to go over a dihedral - there's plenty there to help you get over it. When you are over, you traverse the crack horizontally until you see a crack going up to the right. Great climb - get out and do it!

Added: 2009-05-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ford4x4 on 2009-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars very fun

first multi-pitch in eight years.

Added: 2009-04-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: Mark_Fletcher on 2008-11-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A Classic 5.5

The hiking approach to this climb is a bit difficult, you can easily get off into massive bushwacking if you are not careful. I did the climb roped-solo on a 70 m rope, but if you are doing this with a partner, make sure you adequately protect the thin traverse beyond the bolted belay station to the overlap. Although the climbing is easy, if your second falls, he or she will pendulum into the dihedral. Very thin cams (smallest Aliens) are needed here. You go over the "Oh My God" overlap (crux) rather than up the dihedral, which is another route. Beyond the overlap, if you traverse horizontal for 30' (not the best rock quality), you will come to an excellent belay station at the bottom of a very nice 2-3" crack. Then another pitch to the top. You can walk around to the base by going climber's left from the top, but expect lots of slab walking and bushwacking. Another possibility, which I did not do, is to rappel down from the top on double ropes to multiple rappel stations. This climb faces west, so expect massive heat.

Added: 2008-11-16

... Read all 19 ascent notes