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Matthes Crest Traverse - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
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Chuck and Ellen Wilts, June 1947
Rock
G
Alpine rack to 3"
2500
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Longish route. Starting from the south end, climb 5.7 dihedrals to get to the ridge crest. Follow this all the way till you're on level ground. If you climb this roped up, get going early. As a solo, it takes abt 3 or 4 hours car to car if you're competent. Probably about 20 ropelengths. Comment: There's no way a "competent" climber can do this in 3-4 hours, even soloing. The approach is 5 miles each way, and there's over half a mile of climbing to do. Speed climbers like Florine or Croft could surely do this in 3-4 hours, but not a merely "competent" climber.

Submitted by: romain on 2004-08-01
Views: 1115
Route ID: 9856

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15 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: chugar on 2009-08-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Finally!

Fun climb. It's very unique as I've never been on a knife-edge ridge. Went to the South summit and rapped down between the North and South summits due to weather. Seeing a large lightening bolt strike T-Meadows just in back of someone belaying on the North Summit was enough motivation to call it a day. Single 60m rap plus 30-35 feet of 5.easy. We simu-climbed but if I did this again, I'd rope up for the 1st pitch and the downclimb after the South Summit and short rope maybe 4 small sections in between. Everything else, I'd put the rope away. Rope drag was a drag. Whoever said it takes 4-5 hrs is nuts or incredibly fast.

Added: 2009-08-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: byran on 2008-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Matthes Crest South to North

The first half is a lot of scrambling, most of the good climbing and exposure comes after the north summit. I think it took me around 6 hours car to car.

Added: 2008-11-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tshimkus on 2007-07-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Thunderstruck

it was cloudy in the morning as we approached the climb but the sky did not look too threatening so we decided to go for it. While we were simul-climbing the knife-edge a thunderstorm was approaching from the valley. Lightning was striking only a couple miles away as we got to the notch.

As I reached the pinnacle just beyond the notch my hair was standing on end and the rocks were buzzing and crackling like a transformer. It began sleeting on us and we were certain we would be struck by lightning if we finished the traverse. I set a sling around a round flake in a hurry and we rapped down as fast as we could.

The rappel from the notch was probably intended for a 70m rope but we had a 60m so each rappel went straight of the ends of the rope. At the last rappel we traversed about 60 feet completely exposed across a slab to a tree.

I was never happier to be back on terra firma at the end of that adventure.

Added: 2007-07-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pierredestcroix on 2005-08-17 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Witnessed by: Adam Peterson
Added: 2005-08-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: chukker on 2005-08-14 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Didn't manage to get the whole traverse completed, weather chased us off. Bailed just before the notch.

Added: 2005-08-14

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