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Guide Crack 1 (aka Honeymoon's Over) - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.62/5 Average Rating : 3.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
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Rock (Trad)
G
1
Pro to 3", bolt anchors
80
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 3.83/5

Description:

Fun, strenuous start up left side of short pillar. Up the wide crack/offwidth on right side of pillar is also a 5.8 start. Continue up crack to anchor bolts at 80'. Leftmost of the Guide Cracks.

Descent Options:

Rap.

Submitted by: ontherocks on 2007-04-26
Views: 963
Route ID: 56552

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12 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kubok13 on 2012-07-29 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars none

none

Added: 2012-08-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: critterdude542 on 2011-09-29 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Short

Is over much too quickly. First 15 feet is the only worthwhile part of the climb

Added: 2011-09-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: cencalclimber on 2009-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fun

no comment

Added: 2009-09-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: petertherock on 2008-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good crack training

The bottom crux can be a lieback or hand jam. I liebacked in 2008 as the Supertopo said and it was a hard work! I repeated it in 7/2009 with a hand jam and that made placing pro much easier.

Added: 2009-07-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: benkilgore on 2009-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars With Unter and Mike C

5.7 in the book but felt 5.8 in two places.

Went up the right side of the pillar (stemming) and the up the crack on top of the pillar. The crux for me was clearing the awkward bit above the ledge about 30 feet above the pillar's tip. My gear was in my way, and I had to back off twice before I got my feet in the right order. Smooth sailing, otherwise. Also atop the pillar the crack felt a bit insecure, but not overgrade.

Ate up a red and pink tricam and various other small gear. The pillar was probably the best part, and felt really easy. Take wide gear (#4 camalot) if you want to protect there, though a fall would mean a lot of pain.

Bolts are in a really awkward spot with no handholds or footholds. I don't understand why they aren't 10 feet higher.

Added: 2009-06-22

... Read all 12 ascent notes