Routes : North America : United States : California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Daff Dome : South Flank : Guide Crack 1 (aka Honeymoon's Over)
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Guide Crack 1 (aka Honeymoon's Over) - 5.8
Average Rating : 3.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
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Rock (Trad)
G
1
Pro to 3", bolt anchors
80
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Description:
Fun, strenuous start up left side of short pillar. Up the wide crack/offwidth on right side of pillar is also a 5.8 start. Continue up crack to anchor bolts at 80'. Leftmost of the Guide Cracks.Descent Options:
Rap.
Submitted by: ontherocks on 2007-04-26
Views: 1322
Route ID: 56552
Most Recent Photo
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12 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 12 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
none
none
Added: 2012-08-02
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Short
Is over much too quickly. First 15 feet is the only worthwhile part of the climb
Added: 2011-09-29
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
fun
no comment
Added: 2009-09-03
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Good crack training
The bottom crux can be a lieback or hand jam. I liebacked in 2008 as the Supertopo said and it was a hard work! I repeated it in 7/2009 with a hand jam and that made placing pro much easier.
Added: 2009-07-14
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
With Unter and Mike C
5.7 in the book but felt 5.8 in two places.
Went up the right side of the pillar (stemming) and the up the crack on top of the pillar. The crux for me was clearing the awkward bit above the ledge about 30 feet above the pillar's tip. My gear was in my way, and I had to back off twice before I got my feet in the right order. Smooth sailing, otherwise. Also atop the pillar the crack felt a bit insecure, but not overgrade.
Ate up a red and pink tricam and various other small gear. The pillar was probably the best part, and felt really easy. Take wide gear (#4 camalot) if you want to protect there, though a fall would mean a lot of pain.
Bolts are in a really awkward spot with no handholds or footholds. I don't understand why they aren't 10 feet higher.
Went up the right side of the pillar (stemming) and the up the crack on top of the pillar. The crux for me was clearing the awkward bit above the ledge about 30 feet above the pillar's tip. My gear was in my way, and I had to back off twice before I got my feet in the right order. Smooth sailing, otherwise. Also atop the pillar the crack felt a bit insecure, but not overgrade.
Ate up a red and pink tricam and various other small gear. The pillar was probably the best part, and felt really easy. Take wide gear (#4 camalot) if you want to protect there, though a fall would mean a lot of pain.
Bolts are in a really awkward spot with no handholds or footholds. I don't understand why they aren't 10 feet higher.
Added: 2009-06-22
